Costuming From Mundane Patterns

By Catelinn atte Redfethere (mka Mary Landry)

     The most common question I am asked is, "How do I find a style of costuming that is easy to sew and is period?"  The only answer I can give is to tell people to look in pattern books at cloth stores, and research the ones they like. 

     Many people overlook the best resources.  The human ones.  A'isha al Medinawayyia has been a wonderful resource for me.  She has recommended two books: Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock and Stage Costume- Step by Step by Mary T. Kidd.  These are the two books I will be using as documentation for this article. 

     According to Stage Costume- Step by Step, period fabrics for Medieval costuming are: taffeta, silk, velvet, embroidered velvet, leather, brocade, linen, and wool.  I frequently also recommend cotton and cotton blends.  Cotton breathes, and cotton blends have the advantage of no-ironing.  For 16th Century, the author also recommends: velvet, damask, satin, silk, linen and wool.  For those with late period personae, you may consider looking in 17th Century. (Note: It has the same listing as 16th Century.) 

     The patterns I most frequently use follow, with descriptions and time periods, according to Costume 1066-1990s.  (Note: This book refers to English time periods.) 
 

Pattern Description Period
Simplicity
9229 
T- tunic, T- tunic dress, and cloaks  Edward III
(1327-1377)
McCall's
8826
Fur-trimmed dress and sideless surcoat dress for ladies and girls Richard II
(1377-1399)
McCall's
8827
Men and boys Houppeland Houppeland
(1377-1399)
McCall's
8449
Ladies and girls dress Edward IV
(1461-1483)
McCall's
8450 
Puff and slash tunic for men and boys Edward IV
(1461-1483)
Simplicity
7756
Renaissance lady's dress (can be adapted to Henry VIII) Henry VII
(1485-1509)
Simplicity
7761
Renaissance lord's tunic Henry VII
(1485-1509)

     I use all of these patterns in my own sewing and in sewing for others.  I also use pieces of these patterns to alter them into the styles I want to create. I hope that this article will help you in creating the look that best expresses your personality and helps you express that of your personae. 

Bibliography:
    Peacock, John. Costume 1066-1990s. (revised edition)  London: Thames and Hudson Ltd, 1994. 
    Kidd, Mary T. Stage Costume- Step by Step.  Cincinnati, OH: Betterway Books, 1996. 

Copyright 1999-2001, Mary Landry. All Rights Reserved.

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